Monday, March 20, 2017

Not So Lonely in Laos

When youre traveling with someone else, you share each discovery, but when you are alone you have to carry each experience with you like a secret, something you have to write on your heart, because theres no other way to preserve it.

Luang Prabang, Laos 

Monday, February 20, 2017
The 4 am bus to Taoyuan airport is 2.5 hours, the flight was at 7;35 am. First to Hanoi, Vietnam, and then to Luang Prabang, Laos landing at 12;40 pm. Only a 40 minute flight from Hanoi to LPQ. While in Hanoi I had to have some authentic Pho. Yummmm. On arrival you pay for a $35 visa (US citizen) into Laos, if you didn't bring a passport photo with you (I hadn't) you will pay $2 for them to take one of you, for you. I had to change my NTD to USD in Taiwan before leaving since Taiwan doesn't sell Lao Kip, nor would the roles be reverse, nor would they change it in Vietnam, a country that borders Laos. When I arrived in Luang Prabang I could change my USD to LAK. A couple hundred in USD and you're a millionaire. 
Top left to right: 1. The Lao word for hello is 'sabai dee' usually said with a smile. Touching or showing affection in public will embarrass your hosts. 2. Lao people traditionally greet each other by pressing their palms together to 'nod.' Although it is acceptable for men to shake hands. 3. In Laos your head is 'high,' your feet 'low:' Using your feet for anything other than walking or playing a sport is generally considered rude. 4. Touching someone's head is very, very impolite.
5. Lao people appreciate clean and neatly dress people. 6. Bathing nude in public is impolite. 7. Please remember to take your shoes off before you enter a Lao person's house. 8. Remember your head is 'high' your feet 'low:' It is impolite to gently crouch down when passing someone who is seated. Never, ever step over someone in your path. 9. Kissing and hugging in public in impolite. Please be discrete. 10. Lao people speak softly and avoid confrontation. Please do not shout or raise your voice. 11. Laos loses a little bit of its heritage every time an antique is taken out of the country. Please do not buy antique Buddhas or other sacred items. Instead, support local craftsmen (and women)by purchasing new, quality handicrafts. 12. Please show respect and dress neatly while in temples and when taking photos.

My first of many massages. 
I took a taxi van to Matata Garden Guesthouse. I was staying in a four bedroom mixed dorm, it happened to be the same four girls for all three of my nights, which never happens. It was a great hostel. Lockers, towels, a bathroom for the room (not the entire floor!), free water, free coffee, wooden bunks, great location, soft pillows, helpful hostess, I could go on. I even loved the rooster crowing at dawn every morning. I could have sworn when he 'cock-a-doodle-doo'd' all I could hear was "It'sss The Morning!" 
First meal in Laos. 
After a shower and food, I went out to Sisavangvong Road. Knowing this was my first night, this incredible market was my only goal for the evening. I headed out just before the sun would set and while only a third of the locals marketeers were out at that time, it would soon be made into two lanes of market tents which would be a souvenir-er's heaven. Painted lanterns, wooden knacks, and hand-carved crafts, Lao t- shirts, Thai pants, hundreds of flavors of native tea, hand-crafted jewelry, sculptures of Buddha, art work of endless designs, antiques as small as my pinky nail to as large as a tun, sewn bags, bibs, aprons, slippers, hair ties, anything and everything you could make by hand, and color! 


Every color, just not every size. 

Everywhere there were women, many eating, (all bargaining) with children. -Someone I met later on told me how she thought that 'kids seemed happier in Laos than any other SE Asian country' she had been to (she hadn't been to Taiwan ^^). However, I would say I agree. I've seen many children in my travels laughing, loving, playing, but Lao children seems content, they seem satisfied. 
Fresh fruit stands, as well as a Beerlao always within reach.
Sisavangvong Road was very well lit, it felt safe and exciting. I learned about Laos after coming to Taiwan (of course). It is a Buddhist country and it is wonderfully still very alive in their dedication to this form of enlightenment. This became one of the big reasons I was excited to finally visit Laos. A close runner-up to a country I've been to with monks, young and old, walking among the day to day life was in Myanmar/Burma, but this city of Luang Prabang had/has the strongest prevalence I have ever experience. I loved this city, and I still can't decide if beginning my trip to Laos in my favorite city of three was better or worse. 
Also in Laos there were many scooters, tuk tuks, and a wild amount of foreigners (older in LP).
I was back in my hostel by 7;15 to get plenty of rest before the Almsgiving Ceremony at sunrise on Sisavangvong road.
Click here for a well written article about 5 things to consider before attending this Buddhist Ceremony.


I knew the ceremony would take place on Sisavangvong, this road that stretched across the city. I walked to the first temple I knew of from the night before and ate my banana bread in a chilly peace to wait for the sun to rise. The moon was just a sliver in the sky. The experience for me was so special and meaningful, however, it is one of those experiences I won't share in a blog.  
At the end of the twenty to thirty minute Almsgiving between locals and the monks, the monks recited a prayer to end the ceremony and begin their day.
Luckily both times I went to the Almsgiving there were not very many tourists, and all, but one or two I saw, respected their tradition.
I noticed the man on the roof half a second after I took the photo.
I returned to my room and slept until about 9 when I woke up to get ready for my first full day. Full of ambitions and ready for some authentic FOOD! I found a foreign owned book shop sustainable by volunteers, donations and local made crafts and arts. 
Early on, I discovered Utopia, a foreigner hot spot I had put in my plans to find. It overlooks the Mekong River which is lower during the current dry season. It was a hot, dry day.

A Lao baby girl, no older than two was running around in the Zen atmosphere. 
Kuang- Si Waterfalls, Luang Prabang, Laos
I booked a tuk-tuk through Matata to the Kuang-Si waterfall at 11;30. It was a beautiful, one hour, rocky drive. I would only have about two hours at this place which was enough but I also wanted to see it all, so I hiked straight to the top and worked my way down. Of course in the unbelievably blue scenery I stopped multiple times for photos and just to gawk. This was the first of many times I noticed the outnumbering amount of Korean families to any other tourists. This would be a trend,(as it was in Boracay for CNY). I also heard a lot of French, (Lao was once ruled by) and surprisingly recognized Mandarin quite often within those first few days.
"Kuang Si's water source is a spring about 45 minutes fro the top of the main waterfall. After cascading over the stunning main waterfall that many tourist come to visit, Kuang Si's water becomes the Nam Si (Si River). Several villages make use of its water before it joins the Mekong River."

At this National Park, there was also a bear sanctuary for sun and moon bears. "Moon Bears and Sun Bears, like tigers, are umbrella species. Umbrella species keep their Lao forest wildlife friends safe from extinction." Learn more here!
A pair of girls from New Zealand were also in the van and would later help me get my only photos in the ice cold waterfall.
The main pooling area for public use after entering the National Park. 
I made it back to the main pool for swimming, although I had to stay in the sunlight, it was freezing! One thing I loved was how fresh the water smelled. For the dozens of people who were, or had been, in the water, it smelled so fresh. I could only handle about 10 minutes half-emerged in that blue misty water. So I climbed up to sit in the sun at the top of this bench of the waterfall. While I was sitting there, happily observing people from all over the world enjoying one of nature’s pure beauties, a couple who had just been encouraging me to get deeper in the water were making their way across the deepest part when they both realized they could no longer touch with their feet anymore, and they couldn’t swim, they began to frantically paddle upwards towards the sky. After just a few moments I began to stand up to shout for someone closer to recognize them, when a fully dressed local dived in to save the woman who had disappeared under the water. When she flew up gasping for air her face was a fiery purple. Frigh-ten-ing.
Ferngully? 
When I knew there was about 30 minutes left I walked down to a gorgeous red and gold temple I had seen on the way in. Not a single person there except for the monks at the top of their drum tower. Then I had some veggies, noodles, and a Lao beer before the trip back thinking 'the warm air here feels so good.'


Around 4 I arrived back to my hostel for a shower and head out to Utopia to see the change that takes place after sunset. No more than ten minutes later, I met Jen. A young, 20 something, environmental scientist, from New York, who was half way through her two months of traveling. We each had two completely different, yet interesting stories to share about what led us to Laos.






Wednesday, February 22
The next morning we met for breakfast at 9 am to the bakery whose banana bread I fell in lust with. No avocados.
Jen and I walked through side streets and landed upon the morning market where I somehow found myself trying a larva encrusted in honeycomb. We did a bit of bargaining and shopping for some snake jewels.
I have learned about more kinds of fruits and vegetables since coming to Asia than I could have ever imagined existed. 
Yes, those are grilled rats. 
The third- highest worldwide production: Rice 
We did some touristy spots like the historical Royal Palace of the Lao Kingdom (Haw Kham) where I learned Laos has many good relations with surrounding and powerful nations. I really enjoyed the portraits containing the story of the ancient royal family that were staggered throughout the entire palace. 
Throughout the day we stopped at a few of many temples in the city, Wat Xieng Thong, Phon heuang, Wat Sene, and then made our way back along the riverside roads. We wanted a massage at this point. I have always just picked a place as I walked by, she recommended looking on TripAdvisor, I had no problem with that and it proved to be a great idea. Red Massage was nearly just as inexpensive and the massage, along with the atmosphere was phenomenal.

Expensive, yet exquisite antiques we spotted along the way.
These are some detailed, friendly looking puppets. However, some of the painted puppet faces were looking quite mischievous.
She is making a type of cloth-like material with bright orange flowers in it.
Once it dries in the sun, she will shape it into a lantern.
 
"Do not dwell in the past, do not dream of the future, concentrate the mind on the present moment."
This was the first time I've been inside of a temple where you could actually take a photo of the main Buddha. Normally there is a sign or a watchman, but possibly I wasn't supposed to take this anyways. 

Amazingly detailed golden portraits and figures
on and in the walls and ceilings of these temples. 
Statue of King Sisavang Vong
Son of King Khamsouk. Ruled from 1905-1959.
Statue was 'casted' in Russia in 1975.
To this day, I still think this woman looks like Beyonce.
"Woman need real moments of solitude and self- reflection to balance out how much of ourselves we give away."
Mt. Phousi at sunset
We had the most amazing Pad Thai and then hiked up to Mt. Phousi one hour before sunset. It was already crowded, but we got one of the last great spots and took turns standing up for the best sunset snaps.


City of Luang Prabang.
Chomsi Stupa is located in a spiritual forest, which has two priests meditating at the mountain that people call 'Mount Phousi.' Chomsi Stupa is located in the center of Luang Prabang at 150 meters on top of Mt. PhouSi, known as the city pillar. Built in 1804 after King Anuloud had been king for 8 years. A priest's gave word that it was a good sign to build this city. 
Afterwards we walked Sisavangvong Road and then went to Utopia for a few beers and a chance to meet some other travelers as we would both be heading separate ways in the morning. We met, we spoke, we laughed, we bowled, and then we paid a tuk-tuk truck to take us home before the party ended.

On Thursday, April 23rd at 5;20 I woke up to attend the Almsgiving Ceremony once more, this time I kept my distance and took photos. Jen and I bid adieu, then I took a minivan to Vang Vieng at 9 am, arriving at 1;30.
Vang Vieng, Laos 









Vang Vieng is an ideal place to be for many back-packing foreigners. It was the favorite city in Laos to most of those I had met. Ironically, it was my least favorite of the three. Not that it wasn’t great; It was just overused and underappreciated. The Lao natives in Vang Vieng were obviously numb and callous towards the outpouring of tourists that have come through over the last couple decades. Not that the the tourists have earned their kindness. VV used to be thee par-tee place in Laos. It once had over a dozen riverside bars, moon side bars, jungle parties, etc., where foreigners would drink and smoke and drink and smoke and then too many died. RIP. Now there is only two or three of those places remaining.
View from the Earth Bar.
My hostel was guaranteed the most popular place in town to stay for backpackers. The Real Backpackers Hostel II. I had almost changed places, but realized if I wanted to meet people, I was already in the right place. My first two nights of three I was in a six person mix room on the male floor with four guys from France and Germany, and one girl from the U.K. This hostel was like the original party hostels you can find all over SE Asia. A large communal bathroom on each floor, lockers, water, and towel- not provided. However, the shower temp and pressure was great and the air conditioning was on point.


For my first evening, I bought a hot air balloon ticket and rested until the 5;30 departure. A group of ten of us went up for about a half an hour at the 6 o’clock sunset.

The balloon made it’s near landing with the help of the professionals. One by one, someone would exit the giant basket while another would enter.
We felt the heat and lifted, heat and lift, heat and lift until we were higher than the mountains. Looking down I first noticed  the kayaking tourists along the mighty Mekong, then the fields of burnt patches mixed in green sprouts, the winding roads and river, the shadows of the mountains on the land.
The landing was, as I would have predicted, not normal. The attempted steering into a low grassy plain led us over a barbed wired fence, across a small stream, and into private property. The pros looked for the nodded approval of the owners to land in the inevitable, and crossed over that fence and stream faster than if they were being chased by gators.
Projecting landforms protruding from the Earth. AKA Mountains in a sunset. ^^
We landed, we unloaded, we picked wax apples and ate them before taking the tuk back into town.
"Never Did The World Make A Queen Of A Girl Who Hides In Houses And Dreams Without Traveling."
Friday, the 24th 
The first full day in Vang Vieng, I shared a tuk tuk with another youthful tourist from Korea to the Blue Lagoon. We arrived just before noon. As the tuk tuk was just about to enter the recreational area, I noticed a building that said 'Community Center' and a sign that read 'Send Local Kids to University with a Fruit Shake.' I paid for my ticket to the lagoon and walked right out to that the sign. 

EST 2008- The SEA LAO Project mission statement; "To improve education, provide employment, and encourage sustainable development. We teach English to local children and employ local families. We provide free labor and financial support to the surrounding communities. We practice composting, organic gardening, and sustainable building techniques. Our biogas system fuels our kitchen stove." 
Before going to Laos I did my research, as one should do before they go to an unknown country, and I had come across this project. I had no idea it would cross my well-planned path. 






I was greeted with an immediate warm welcome as I walked in. A few foreigners who were the volunteers said hello, as well as a few Lao staff in the kitchen. I ordered my Mango fruit shake and asked if it was okay to look around, of course it was. 

The photo above is inside of the 'Community Center' which serves as a one room schoolhouse for all ages and above the classroom is the dormitory style sleeping quarters for the volunteer teachers. It is a minimum two week stay for volunteers, with housing, food, and facilities covered.
Why Compost? Helps to regenerate the fauna of the soil! Micro organisms turn the organic nitrogen into mineral stone that can be taken in by plants. More solid elements to the soil structure for better ventilation.
Regulates pH for optimal growing conditions. Optimizing the waste treatment by respecting life's cycle. 
SEA LAO also includes a restaurant, washrooms, workshop and soap project, tropical hearth, straw hut, nursery, mudbrick station, and a 'duck island.'  
CO CO NUTS
Back at the Blue Lagoon I grabbed the rope, kicked my feet up, and swung into the blue abyss. While cooling off at the swing half emerged, I helped root for a few other dare-devils who were jumping off the man-made tree balcony. I got the nerve up to do it once as well. Before you decide to climb the bamboo ladder, the sign reads, "Get drunk don't climb to jump!"

Friday was the night I planned to go out till dawn, attend the Jungle Party and just have a time. I began with a Beerlao with the staff at Sakura and soon met Lina from Germany. We were caught up in a rapid give and take conversation when we decided to try TifaLcony's. Later I returned to Sakura on my own, bought my Jungle Party ticket, got a free T-shirt, met a hilarious Swiss guy, played some pong, and danced with the Korean gentlemen.
In the morning, I relaxed and had some breakfast to the great tune of FRIENDS. 
It was a low key Saturday, as the plans I had to go cave tubing were squashed by cold and windy weather (and no good recommendation until I got to Vientiane.) After breakfast, I had a full body massage and then relaxed on bamboo patios built upon the Mekong at a recommended 'The Island Bar' nicely situated on a small island in the middle of the city. 
Vientiane, Laos
Sunday, February 26

I left for Vientiane at 8;30 in the morning and arrived at 1;30. I had two days. On the mini-van we had one stop where I had some pineapple and hot Lao tea. I slept for most of the ride but when I was awake I had a lively talk about Taiwan and marital status with a young Korean. I had my first western food, pizza, at a place I was recommended to by two Canadians I had met previously. Nice people, nice place, not good pizza.
Dream Home Hostel II "Welcome Home," said the small dark Lao man at the Hostel's front desk. And it felt like home as it was my first nights in a private room. DOUBLE for a SOLO! I visited a few of the temples around the area I was staying in, along with stopping at art and antique shops, tea shops, and a local stadium.    
Wat Ong Teu
Wat Ong Teu is the Temple of the Heavy Buddha. The temple was initially constructed by King Settathirat in the 16th century, known as the golden age of Buddhism in Laos.  
First time seeing a white temple. ^^
"Wandering is the activity of a child, the passion of a genius; it is the discovery of the self, the discovery of the outside world, and the learning of how the self is both "at one with " and "separate from" the outside world.  These discoveries are as fundamental to the soul as "learning to survive" is fundamental to the body. These discoveries are esssential to realizing what it means to be human. To wander is to be alive." 

My first and second night in Vientiane I went to the night market which was away from the main streets Rue Setthathilath and Rue Samsenthai. The first night I went with a male teacher I met who was also the first US American I met. He was currently working in S. Korea. He tried chicken feet! The second night I met a man from South Africa at the hostel and we walked the markets and ate at the local outdoor non-commercial-eatery. The nightly market was set on the streets that lined a city park near the Mekong River. Both nights I saw an overload of kids playing on the seemingly newer playground equipment. This market was SO much different than the market of Luang Prabang. The night market is Vientiane reminded me much more of Taiwan's markets, in that it is for more essential items such as clothes, shoes, bags, and jewelry. It also had knock off perfume, cologne, purses, wallets, which is more similar to the day markets in KL, Malaysia. It had much less crafts and decorated items. 

Entrance to the Pumpkin Tower at the Buddha Park.
Monday, February 27th
On my last morning of my full day, I woke up early to go to The Lao National Museum before going to the Buddha Park with Lauren. A young Canadian girl I met at my hostel during their delicious free breakfast. She was brilliant. 

The flag of Laos on the left was adopted on December 2, 1975. The white disk in the center represents the unity of the Lao people. The blue is said to represent the Mekong River, the nation's prosperity, and the red is said to represent 'the blood shed by the Lao people on both banks of the Mekong River in their struggle for freedom and independence from the French.' On the right is the Flag of the Lao People's Revolutionary party. It looks to be the same as a Communist Flag. There were many throughout all of Laos.  

This fully intact skeleton was one of several significant finds after excavations at Pha Faen Cave. It shows evidence of Neolithic and 'potentially' Paleolithic human habitation. The skeleton was found in a flexed position. It is male and 170 cm tall. Nearby a collection of stone tools, decorative pottery, shell beads, and butchered animal bones were found.
Head of Vishnu
"This sculpture was made under the influence of Angkor's Bayon style (Cambodia). The serenity of the facial features is typical art of this period. The peaceful benevolence of the deities the Angkorian style depicts is unusual, as other Buddhist art traditions tend to represent all aspects of creation, striking balance between good and evil, wrath and mercy, and life and death.

It seems that this was originally a sculpture of the Buddhist deity Lokesvara, the Lord of the World, but his elaborate hairstyle has been modified to make Vishnu's crown." 

The Peacock Houda
Mounted onto elephants. This was a traditional
means of transport in Laos during the 17th century.
Still used for special ceremonies in Vientiane.

US Airforce Bombing Data Map in Lao PDR.
There were three floors of ancient history to not-so
long ago history.  These were just a few pieces
from the collection. 
"If you don't know history, then you don't know anything.
You are a leaf that doesn't know it is part of a tree."
Buddha Park
After the Museum I met up with my Canadian gal pal Lauren yet again and we headed to the bus station where you can take a 45 minute ride, for 6,000 Kip (tourist packages will charge you 70,000) to the Xiengkuane Buddha Park of Vientiane (about 25 km away). It sits along the border of Laos near Thailand. We even stopped at the border crossing known as the Friendship Bridge before making our full journey to the park. 
Lauren and I
The most popular statue is the Reclining Buddha or Wat Xiengkuane (120M in length). At the small yellow umbrellas on the left sits a small chapel for prayer and offerings. On the very far left sits the Pumpkin Tower (6M in height)
Laos Family 
 
This Buddha Park is also known as Wat Xieng Khouang for the large reclining Buddha that also serves as a temple. It was built in 1958 by Bunleua Sulilat, a spiritual leader and sculptor. This park has more than 200 marvelous and bizarre statues placed by Hindus and Buddhists. Each with their own story, yet many still unknown. Not only are there concrete sculptures of Buddha in this park, but also anthropomorphic animals, gods, and demons.
Inside of the Pumpkin Tower there are three levels of interior dwellings and wrap around stairs. Along the walkways you can find dozens of sculptures, many are now broken into smaller pieces and covered with dust. Each level represents the three religious levels of hell, Earth, and the sky. I noticed a lot of snake-like designs while inside, however, I don't know which 'level' they were representing. After climbing the steep narrow staricases to the top you can see a wonderful view of the entire park as well as this tentacle-like tree atop the pumpkin tower. 
The majority of the statues face the
east, however the ones representing
death or demons face the west.
There were quite a few that I yearned to know the story for.
We only spent an hour or two at the park. My interest and fasination for this place far succeeded the other tourist in the area. 
Another popular sculpture is the one of the elephant with three heads. It represents a special meaning in Buddhism and in Laos, the land of a million elephants. This image of the three-headed elephant was also used on the Lao flag to represent the three former kingdoms, Luang Prabang, Vientiane, and Champasak. Between these three former kingdoms there are 49 recognized ethnic groups living in Laos.

"When one thinks of Laos, one thinks of the Mekong River, the lifeblood of the region. The Mekong played a significant role in the shaping of Lao culture and heritage throughout history: the river brought Hinduism and Buddhism (67%) to the people; Animalism, a culture which worships nature, mixed with Hinduism and Buddhism; and most importantly, the Mekong continues to produce agricultural and economic prosperity." 
Where to next?
2017 has already has some of the most incredible moments, with 
Laos being an unforgettable experience to start off my year. I am looking forward to my next adventure that will take me to Europe in early May. Thank you reading - K