Thursday, March 15, 2018

Sealing the Deal with Sydney

Sydney by Friday 

The main question I was asked before, during, and after my time in Australia was which city I preferred, Melbourne or Sydney? The two huge, invigorating cities seem to have an unspoken rivalry just as many close, but very similar cities, sports teams, or siblings would. Of course, one should always decide for themselves. 
On the 23rd of February I arrived in Sydney around 4PM and took a shuttle to Central Station where Wake Up! Sydney was located. I'm quite certain it's the largest hostel I have ever stayed in (540 beds!). It was widely popular, due to it's location at the heart of Sydney's train stations, and the fact that it was one of Sydney's first hostels opening in 2002. The building is over a 100 years old, (see photo below). There are sister hostels in Melbourne and Byron Bay. The staff at Wake Up! were very helpful, and again something I was enjoying in Australia, there was enough help for multiple people. A disadvantage to popular hostels such as this, is that they're a lot less generous with things such as adapters and towels. 


Railroad Square in 1910 Sydney Archives. The historical building was purchased by the Millett Group  from State Rail Authority of NSW. Then 'underwent a major internal renovation before reopening.' 
At about 7:00-7:30 each night there were intercom announcements literally shouting, "Wake Up! Sydney, " + then continued on inviting you to the evening's festivities. They will even come knock on your door most nights to recruit! ^^ 

I didn't stick around in the room long after check in. I met another soon-to-be friend, and chatty UK fellow in my room and then ventured out to China Gardens in Darling Harbour. I was so happy to see some Chinese New Year Festivities, after all it was now the year of the dog. 
I also checked out Paddy's Markets but just for snooping and some photos. Opened only Wednesday to Sunday 10 am to 6 PM. Great souvenirs. Towels with body prints on them were popular. Indian blankets, T shirts, and a lot of plastic junk. 

Just over a week into Australia all I was craving was some noodles and soup, something I have quite frequently.  I found a little Malayan restaurant and went in, ordered a king prawn noodle soup. Sadly, worst meal of the trip. Strike one, Sydney against Melbourne. ^^
Entering China Garden of Friendship.
"Within the four seas all men are brothers.
"
To my pleasure there was an amazing array of earrings in this small market. It is quite fascinating to me that in every large city I have been in, there is always a Chinatown to be found. 
Construction on the city of Sydney was more visible than in Melbourne. I noticed this in the trams and in the buildings near Darling Harbour. While Melbourne was quickly growing in high-rise buildings, on the ground, it had many more outdoor trams being used. This got people out on the streets together. Sydney had only one or two routes in use. However, they seemed to be adding in more tram railways throughout the streets. On one night I noticed large ceramic flower pots sitting atop the lines finished but not in use. Closer to central station you could see rails still being dug up and laid out. It was nice to see young construction workers with a pep in their step. I even saw two woman in neon orange jackets, something I have not seen before.
On my walk to Hyde park there were about half a dozen or so large portraits of elder native Australians. 
I didn't even go in here. I think I just like the flags hanging in unity.
Not the greatest shot, but so many of these gorgeous historical buildings have been turned into modern, everyday business and/or company shops. To someone from Europe, this wouldn't be anything special. But compared to architecture in USA and Asia, to me, it's quite grand.
At the Hyde Park Memorial, the Anzac Memorial was made 'to remember the impact of the Great War (1914-1918).' The indoor memorial was temporarily closed, but the statue inside holds great significance to the war and those involved. Funding began in 1916 and it was finished in 1934.  

"'Sacrifice' which is at the heart of the Anzac Memorial, was made in plaster at the sculptor Rayner Hoff's studio....The Sculpture shows a dead warrior being borne on the shoulders of his mother, sister, wife and child." 
Even without getting to stand before it, this image of the sculpture was so moving. The memorial is for the young men who died, and yet, at the heart of it, just as with many wars, is the strength of the women and girls who carried the burden of it all. Losing sons, fathers, brothers, and lovers, picking up the pieces, taking over the jobs of men now gone, c
ontinuing on, somehow, pushing on.  How many times did we, will we, repeat this history?
 Back at the hostel, my UK bunk mate and I went for some drinks at Side Bar: Mix up the World which is attached to the hostel. At tonight's venue, a huge international party including a bikini contest. They had to keep removing tables for the dance floor, and just as in Melbourne, the dance floor was widely mixed with people and even wilder dance moves. For those wondering about the bikini contest, Norway #1, USA #2, Australia #3.

Saturday, February 24
Beaches that Make Your Heart Beat Faster

Vacation Brunch.
Easy access and easy directions from Wake Up! got UK and I en route to Coogee by bus for the Bondi to Coogee Costal Walk. We had a filling and delicious brunch at The Little Kitchen and began the 6km coastal hike. It was well under two hours, even with my frequent stops to take photos. 
The start of the trail begins over an optional trail through sand colored cliffs. 
The average adventurer might opt to sit on the edge for a photo.  But by far too windy for those odds.
Dozens of runners passed us both ways on this visually stimulating trail.
This was before I knew I was about to see 'the most six-packs in my life in one day.'
Unexpectedly, the trail runs through Waverley cemetery (est. 1877) with plots dating back to the 1800s!
'Stunning views, beaches, parks, cliffs, bays, and rock pools' line this coastal walk near Sydney's eastern suburbs. Other than enjoying the beaches or taking the hike, there are many places to rest, eat, and play along the way.  There are even free electric barbecues in some of the parks, which I also saw being used in Melbourne's Birrarung Marr Park. 
From Coogee, the hike goes on to Clovelly Beach, Bronte Beach, Tamarama Beach, and finally, when your not sure how another beach could possibly be any better than the ones you've just passed by on, you see Bondi. 

Bondi Beach sits in a horseshoe style bay, and truly took my breath away when it was finally within sight. A picture could not capture it's beauty and magnitude. As you walked closer, small memoirs described the beach's exotic history. What I found most interesting was that this area was once called 'Wonderland City' with great acts like 'Princess Alice.' 
BONDI : An aboriginal word meaning "water breaking over rocks."
Picked out a spot, lathered up on more SPF50 and went straight into the water. At first the water was shockingly cool. After a few waves rush over your body it feels like nothing but refreshing! (and clean!) I couldn't believe I could still see my feet at the bottom when the water came up to my chest. The waves coming in were perfect to play, dive, and ride. I was experiencing exactly why this beach had been so popular for centuries. 
The sky makes me dizzy. 
Australia has well-established train and tram systems in its major cities that are used by locals and tourists alike. Used everyday, efficiently, safely, and sanitaryily.  Wait, Europe also has well-established train, tram and metro systems in its major cities throughout its tightly knitted countries.  Oh! And, many large Asian cities also have their own metro and train railways for locals and tourists to conveniently and cost- effectively use.  Wow! Wouldn't it be pleasant if this was an option for citizens of, and tourists to, a first-world, 'leader of the free' country with so many of its own great cities and wonderful sights to see and share? 
Father of the New South Wales Railways. 
First time seeing a Double Decker metro system.
Saturday evening approached quickly after a full day at the beach. My plan to meet up with a Canadian friend I'd known from Taiwan, now living in Sydney, was pushed up a day as the next two days were supposed to rain. I took a train two stops to Wynard Station, and then an hour bus ride out near Manly.
On this sunset bus ride I crossed over the Sydney Harbour Bridge and saw my first peek of the Sydney Opera House. The ride went along beautiful harbors and bays with hundreds of sailboats and luxurious houses built right into the coastal mountainsides.
We, along with her boyfriend, had some delicious drinks and tacos at Chica Bonita right along the Manly Beach walkway. After that we were out for a night of enormous bars, live music, expensive drinks, and, as Australia would have it, wild dancing. 

One of the pubs we went to: Hotel Steyne.
Photo was taken Tuesday when I spent my last afternoon at Manly Beach.

Sunday, A Day for Rest

As predicted the following day was a gloomy one. I slept in, had breakfast with the roommate, and enjoyed the comforts of a cozy house until late afternoon. With a 100% chance of rain by 3 o'clock, I got on the bus shortly before that. Unfortunately, I rode the bus over a half hour before realizing I was going the wrong way. In hindsight, it was actually lucky. At the stop I caught on and switched at, I was able to grab an express bus back to Wydant Station, then onto Central without all the stops of a city bus. 


Fortune tellers seemed to pop up all over Australia. 
 
I dropped off my overnight bag and headed to Surry Hills. I was craving one of my favorite dishes, seafood spaghetti marinara (more noodles ^^). I planned to walk as long as it would take until I found, and I did, the perfect Italian restaurant for me to quietly indulged in this divine cuisine. It began to really pour by the time I finished. I made it back to Wake Up! in a hurry, showered and caught up on some much needed rest. 




Monday, February 26
How many districts can you see in one day?

Although I firmly believe you should only drink soda maybe twice a year, I will always be a Coca-Cola girl. 
Breakfast in Chippendale after passing Broadway.  Two stops northeast of central is Kingscross. 

Every place you'd want to see in Sydney seemed to be within four stops of Central. Just two stops away was Kingscross. It was easy to tell that there was definitely some nightlife action near this station.

Paddington
The streets get unbelievable small and windy. I walked around in circles trying to get lost in the streets, in hopes to stumble upon some little secret.   

The trees canopied over every street in Paddington.

At Circular Quay you meet the Sydney Opera House. The rain would start soon after this shot was taken. 
Construction on Sydney Opera House in 1960s.
Her Majesty, Queen Elizabeth opened the Sydney Opera House on Saturday, October 20, 1973.
Town Hall and Queen Victoria Building.
QVB was built in the 1890s and occupies an entire block on George Street.  Originally built as a town marketplace on the scale of a cathedral, it was restored and reopened in 1986 and became "Sydney's most popular and prestigious shopping center" with over 180 fashion boutiques, jewelry shops, and home-ware remedies. As with most shopping centers, small cafes and restaurants are scattered throughout the building. I stopped at a German bakery and one of a dozen coffee shops. 
The largest Australian flag I saw was posted up in  Darling Harbour. Surrounded by the beauty of the boats and buildings. There was a huge amount of hotels, restaurants, and family-fun attractions in this area. The boardwalk was also full of runners. Made me think of those locals who call this world- famous city their home. It takes a different kind of city dweller to adapt and live so easily among the constant flow of tourists. People who come to your city to get something from it, more often than give back to it. However, Sydney is an easy city to be proud of. 

Final Day, Final Say

BEST WAY TO SEE SYDNEY HARBOUR: Ferry from Circular Quay to Manly Wharf 
Essentially the birthplace of modern Sydney: The Rocks.
My flight out of Sydney was a red eye flight on the 27th, this gave me one last chance to see the iconic Sydney Opera House and Harbour Bridge under a blue sky. Before I took the highly recommended ferry through the harbor I found a cozy nook for brunch in The Rocks.  I had wanted to visit this historical area after hearing it held Sydney's oldest pubs and seeing photos of it's small cobbled lanes and 1800s style buildings. The Rocks hides in the "shadows of the Harbour Bridge."
Big Breaths of Beauty on the 45 minutes ferry ride to Manly. Twice on the ride I was reminded of Disney's Pirates of the Caribbean movies I like so much. First while watching the movement of the water from the boat, it almost seemed like it would flip over, flop us into a new world. The second was seeing fish peck at the clams and/or mussels that lined the dock. It was so lively, and I thought of how the dead grows as part of the ocean, just as they showed so well in the movies. My fascination and happiness about, of, and on the sea keeps growing as well. 
"When you leave a beautiful place, you carry it with you where ever you go."
I spent a couple of hours at Manly Beach, which happened to be hosting a surfing event, watching surfers and children fearlessly running into squawking seagulls.
I wanna live where coastal walks like this are never too far away.
Sydney Opera House 
After reflecting on my two weeks spent in Australia, my final thoughts on the Sydney vs. Melbourne argument is that they have much more in common than they do have in differences. A mix of old and new. History and hipsters can be found in both, it just depends on where you look. In both cities everything is a close walk or metro ride away, parks are in abundance, as well as wine shops, street art, memorials, markets, and beautiful people with bodies out of this world. If I had to pick, which city I'd like to spend a third week in, I'd pick Melbourne. I'd pick Melbourne for the people I met, the city's events, the vegetarian inspired food, and the youthfulness that pumps through it's streets. However, if you'd ask me where I'd want to spend just one more day, there is no comparison to the beaches of Sydney. 


What thoughts really were left in my mind, after visiting what was later pointed out to me as my fourth continent on this miraculous planet, were the disadvantages that younger generations of Americans have, and will keep having, on their ability to travel far and wide. As well as the obstacles foreigners, who would love to work and/or travel, have to go through just to enjoy the beauty of the USA.  In my chats with other visitors to the land down under, (visitors who wished it was just as easy to explore the USA) I was asked a few questions; 'Why is it so difficult to get health insurance in your country? Why would your government make it's own citizens pay so much for higher education? Why do Americans eat so much fast food?' and the most embarrassing, 'Why was a TV celebrity elected to be president?' Seemingly simple questions, yet I had no answer other than, 'We don't seem to know any different.' (There is a reason for that!)  Which then led to the question of 'Why don't we learn about other countries? Why do we learn a chopped up version of our own country's history?' These are actually very loaded questions, that will lead you, in truth, down a very dismal and dark journey of corruption and ignorance in America. 
BUT, There is a quote; "A Wise Traveler Never Despises His Own Country." So without further misleading one to believe I despise my homeland, I'll say this. Well educated people know there is a change coming.  

Thanks for reading. -K